Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens - Kiwi Guide Stories
Join MoaTours Kiwi Guide Andre on his journey through the springtime gardens of Taranaki. Read his travel diary and see his favourite pictures.
Kia Ora, my name is Andre Booth and I am a veteran Kiwi Guide with MoaTours and and this is my take on the Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens tour, one of my favourite trips.
When I left school, I spent three years studying botany and plant ecology, and have since gone on to work in several different roles in the outdoors. So, I was excited when MoaTours asked me to lead this trip as I know “Rhodos” are such a show stopper when in full bloom!
The Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens tour is perfectly timed to visit a generous sampling of hand-picked private gardens and established plantings that feature stunning rhododendron collections.
We visit the week before the Taranaki Rhododendron Festival, which is the perfect time to take advantage of all the preparations to make these sites look their best. Also to our advantage, is getting to enjoy all the best features of the garden without the crowds of the Festival.
Day 1 – Auckland – Piopio – New Plymouth
Our tour kicks off with gathering our group and meeting up in Auckland before jumping on the southern motorway. Being a Lyttelton local, I fly up to Auckland the day before in preparation for the tour.
It’s probably a giveaway, but as I guide, I do love the opportunity to travel. Of course, I travel happier once I’ve paid my money o Air NZ to offset my carbon footprint. Got to keep those gardens green!
I find the real beauty of these tours is in the people and the mix of great New Zealanders coming together to explore our country and have some fun.
Once we’re all together it’s everyone aboard and their luggage loaded in our trusty trailer, and we are off heading south on the motorway.
First stop, (not including morning tea of course!) is Carmel Farm where Rachel, our host, welcomes us into her lovely, renovated farmhouse built in 1931 just north of Piopio. As we dine on a delicious light lunch we are overlooking the rolling hills of the Anselmi Farm.
Our second stop, brings us to our first proper garden visit just on the outskirts of New Plymouth; the Waiongana Gardens. For me, it’s such a boost after all the preparation and logistics before the tour.
We’re greeted by our hosts John and Diana with a couple of big, relaxed kiwi smiles! They show us around 10 acres of impressive plantings, somewhat formal in the centre area and encompassed within the boundary of a strong, fast-flowing crystal-clear river.
Diana and John always wander around with members of the group, happily answering their questions. I get excited when John points out a rare native grass tucked in among one of his rock garden plantings.
Before we head into New Plymouth to check into our Millennium Waterfront Hotel for the next three nights, we take in the impressive Te Rewa Rewa Bridge and sneak in a group photo.
Day 2 – New Plymouth - Hirst Cottage - Te Kainga Marire - Tupare - Pukeiti
Today is a busy day in the best way, as it’s one where we get to experience a lot of variety.
First up we have the historic Hirst Cottage, and by historic I mean one of four built in 1864 in New Plymouth. Judi, our host, has it looking as if it’s straight out of a house and garden photo shoot.
Next up is one of my personal favourites, Te Kainga Marire which translates to “peaceful encampment” and indeed it is. The best feature of Valda Poletti’s garden (other than the playful dog), is the native plants. From the flowing kaka beak (Clianthus) out on the street front, this is a garden I could easily spend all day in. We take time to wander before taking the short drive on to Tupare.
Tupare is a house and garden open to the public and managed by the Taranaki Regional Council with full time professional gardeners. I know from my time at the Christchurch Botanic Gardens that if there are full time gardeners employed you experience a whole other level of horticulture, botanical expertise, and plant collections, and this is no exception.
After negotiating the steep drive, half of the group is guided through the house while the other half is guided through the garden to experience some serious rhododendrons bursting into flower among mature trees and other landscaped plantings. And then they swap places so everyone gets to share in the experience.
After lunch in town we pop next door and visit the Len Lye Centre/Govett-Brewster Gallery. It’s such a striking building and the collections have a contemporary feel, the unexpected is always a conversation starter. I’ve always appreciated the parallels between art and gardens.
Our last visit of the day is Pukeiti Gardens located on the side of Mt Fuji. Oh wait, yes, it’s actually Taranaki Maunga, but whenever it does reveal itself from behind the cloud, I can’t help but think of Tom Cruise and the movie, “The Last Samurai”, which filmed in the area and used Mt Taranaki as Mt Fuji.
The Pukeiti Gardens with its volcanic soils and high rainfall is really a “holy grail” for rhododendrons in New Zealand. There’s a rich history to the collections of rhodo species, cultivars, and propagation here. We have a guided walk with a senior gardener who helps us avoid the rain for the most part as I run back to the vehicle and grab an armful of our complimentary umbrellas.
Day 3 – Taranaki Farmhouse Gardens - Hikurangi - van der Poel, Sanderson and Oakley Gardens
This is the first year we have stayed an additional night in New Plymouth. This extra day around the traps has given us the time to relax, unwind and enjoy three nights at the Millennium Hotel New Plymouth Waterfront which, from my point of view, ticks all the boxes for a four-star hotel. It also gives us the chance to meet the owners of four country gardens along the western flank of Mt Taranaki not far from the coast.
First we call into Hikurangi to meet Maureen Brophy. This was a wonderful way to start the day out in the countryside wandering the pathways through this colourful, rambling, 7 acre woodland garden. There are many large trees and open lawns and from the large pond with its new bridge there are wonderful views out to the maunga.
At Maria van der Poel’s farmhouse garden stunning sculptures are artfully placed throughout the garden. There are many well established trees, rhododendron s and large formal lawns as well as meandering paths through native bush.
Elaine Sanderson's garden on dairy farm is only a kilometre or so from the west coast. The salt-laden winds have meant her New Zealand Garden Trust Five Star garden garden has to be able to withstand all sorts of wild weather. There is absolutely no chance of rhododendrons thriving here. Instead Elaine has created a garden of many treasured plants, including some from her mother's garden, set among sculptures and columns that complement the roses and shubbery.
Guy and Jenny Oakley's is a much more sheltered garden and closer to Hawera. Recently designated a New Zealand Garden Trust Six Star garden,it has fully planted garden rooms linked with hedge-lined pathways. Cottage-style borders, early flowering roses, and incredibly profuse hanging baskets are a special feature.
We return to New Plymouth in the late afternoon for our final night at the Waterfront and dine in at the Salt Restaurant with its views out to the Len Lye Wind Wand.
Day 4 – New Plymouth – Cairnhill Garden – Hawera – Whanganui
In the morning we set off for Pukekura Park. Strolling in past the iconic terraced cricket ground it feels like we couldn’t get any more of a quintessential New Plymouth experience than this. Next to the café sits a million-dollar vista, looking down the lake over the red Poet’s Bridge with Mt Taranaki in full view as the backdrop. The rhododendron dell is a highlight for our group.
We head out of New Plymouth to Cairnhill Garden east of Stratford, at the start of the Forgotten World Highway, and get spoilt during morning tea with home baking and a verdant garden, all shared by our warm hosts June and Colin Lees.
A bit further down the road is Puketarata garden with Jennifer and Ken Homer. What I find fascinating about this garden is the fact they have found pre-European hangi stones on the property. Jennifer and Ken have also printed a booklet on the history of both the property and garden which some of the group take away as a souvenir.
On our way to Whanganui for the night we stop in Hawera at Gravetye Garden hosted by Jenny and John Pease. Now one of the fantastic things about an organised garden tour is that not one garden is the same and these wonderful differences are highlighted as we go along. Gravetye is no exception and the hedges here must be seen to be believed. Another very worthy stop.
Day 5 – Whanganui – Cross Hills Gardens – Taupo
Today we make our way to Cross Hills Gardens at Kimbolton in the Manawatu where our guide gives us a great introduction to the area and then it’s time to wander with map in hand (or not) through this impressive garden.
As for rhododendrons, Cross Hills has it covered well and truly. Being a foodie, I have to mention the lunch in the old-fashioned style tearoom, reminiscent of the ones that used to be dotted all over New Zealand. Don’t get me wrong I love our modern cafe culture but there is something very comforting about the Cross Hills cafe with the sandwiches, savouries, and slices washed down with a pot of tea.
I always like to stop at The Wool Store at Utiku. I’m a big fan of supporting New Zealand made products especially wool products as both my parents grew up on sheep farms in the South Island. In saying that, it has definitely been encouraging to witness the resurgence of merino wool in the last couple of years; and with that in mind, it’s almost certain that I’ll buy two pairs of locally made merino socks!
We all enjoy the dramatic scenery of the Desert Road and its guardian mountains and the drive around the shores of Lake Taupo to the Millennium Hotel and Resort Manuels. This hotel is always a favourite stop, the lake views from the dining room at sunset are magnificent and would lift anyone's spirit!
Day 6 – Taupo – Tauhara Garden - Waipihihi Botanical Gardens – Te Awamutu – Auckland
After breakfast at our hotel restaurant, and a walk along the lakeside trail for the keen, we make our way to lovely Tauhara Garden, 10km from Taupo at the start of the Taupo to Napier Road. This 1½ hectares garden at the foot of Mt Tauhara has been developed over 25 years by Lorna Henry who takes us for a wander through flowering shrubs, large trees and ponds. It never ceases to amaze me how down to earth and humble all our hosts and gardeners are and it makes guiding incredibly enjoyable.
Nearby is the magical Waipahihi Botanical Garden, the creation of an amazing army of volunteers who spend long hours tending the plantings and keeping the pathways open. A guide joins our coach to tell us the history of the gardens as we drive by the magnificent swathes of rhododendrons and azaleas in full bloom set against a backdrop of native bush. There are easy paths to wander and stunning glimpses of the lake through the trees.
The last stop on our tour is Rosenvale, near Te Awamutu, where we enjoy a splendid lunch hosted by Penny Diprose. Then, all of a sudden, our springtime holiday is coming to an end and it's time to head northwards and return through the countryside to Auckland.
Discover Taranaki’s Rhododendron Gardens for yourself
I hope you’ve enjoyed my pictures and stories from Taranaki.
As the rhododendrons bloom in springtime it’s always one of the first tours of the season, which is another reason I love it. Getting out in the countryside in spring is a great uplift after winter and the sight of all those amazing rhododendrons in flower will warm anyone’s heart!
As well as the beautiful rhododendrons, what I always remember from these trips are the people. Our warm friendly hosts who welcome us into their gardens and share their life’s work with us, and of course our amazing guests, who come together from all parts of the country to make this journey a once in a lifetime experience.
It’s sharing this time with great people which makes these tours special.
See more about our Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens tour here and come find out for yourself this spring.