Join MoaTours Kiwi Guide Andre on his journey through the springtime gardens of Taranaki. Read his travel diary and see his favourite pictures.
Kia Ora, my name is Andre Booth and I am a veteran Kiwi Guide with MoaTours and and this is my take on the Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens tour, one of my favourite trips.
When I left school, I spent three years studying botany and plant ecology, and have since gone on to work in several different roles in the outdoors. So, I was excited when MoaTours asked me to lead this trip as I know “Rhodos” are such a show stopper when in full bloom!
The Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens tour is perfectly timed to visit a generous sampling of hand-picked private gardens and established plantings that feature stunning rhododendron collections.
We visit before the Taranaki Rhododendron Festival, which is the perfect time to take advantage of all the preparations to make these sites look their best. Also to our advantage, is getting to enjoy all the best features of the garden without the crowds of the Festival.
Day 1 – Auckland – Carmel Farm, Piopio – Waiongana Gardens – New Plymouth
Our tour kicks off in Auckland and once we’re all together and everyone is aboard with their luggage loaded, we jump on the southern motorway. I find the real beauty of these tours is in the people and the mix of great New Zealanders coming together to explore our country and have some fun.
First stop, (not including morning tea of course!) is Carmel Farm where Rachel, our host, welcomes us into her lovely, renovated farmhouse built in 1931 just north of Piopio. As we dine on a delicious light lunch we are overlooking the rolling hills of the Anselmi Farm.
Our second stop, brings us to our first proper garden visit just on the outskirts of New Plymouth; the Waiongana Gardens. For me, it’s such a boost after all the preparation and logistics before the tour.
We’re greeted by our hosts John and Diana with a couple of big, relaxed kiwi smiles! They show us around 10 acres of impressive plantings, somewhat formal in the centre area and encompassed within the boundary of a strong, fast-flowing crystal-clear river.
Diana and John always wander around with members of the group, happily answering their questions. I get excited when John points out a rare native grass tucked in among one of his rock garden plantings.
Before we head into New Plymouth we take in the impressive Te Rewa Rewa Bridge and sneak in a group photo.
We check into the Millennium Hotel New Plymouth Waterfront for the next three nights which gives us time to relax, unwind and enjoy our stay at this four-star hotel which, from my point of view, ticks all the boxes.
Day 2 – New Plymouth – Hirst Cottage – Te Kainga Marire – Tupare
Today is a busy day in the best way, as it’s one where we get to experience a lot of variety.
First up we have the historic Hirst Cottage, and by historic I mean one of four built in 1864 in New Plymouth. Judi, our host, has it looking as if it’s straight out of a house and garden photo shoot.
Next up is one of my personal favourites, Te Kainga Marire which translates to “peaceful encampment” and indeed it is. The best feature of Valda Poletti’s garden (other than the playful dog), is the native plants. From the flowing kaka beak (Clianthus) out on the street front, I could easily spend all day in this New Zealand Garden Trust Six Star Garden. We take time to wander around before heading into town for lunch at Monica’s.
After lunch in town we pop next door and visit the Len Lye Centre/Govett-Brewster Gallery. It’s such a striking building and the collections have a contemporary feel, the unexpected is always a conversation starter. I’ve always appreciated the parallels between art and gardens.
Tupare House and Garden, another of the Trust’s Six Star Gardens, is open to the public and managed by the Taranaki Regional Council with full time professional gardeners. I know from my time at the Christchurch Botanic Gardens that if there are full time gardeners employed you experience a whole other level of horticulture, botanical expertise, and plant collections, and this is no exception.
We are guided through the Arts & Crafts house designed by Chapman-Taylor, and the garden to experience some serious rhododendrons bursting into flower among mature trees and other landscaped plantings.
Day 3 – New Plymouth – Pukeiti – Hikurangi – Oakley Garden – Sanderson Garden
Our first visit of the day is Pukeiti Gardens located on the side of Mt Fuji. Oh wait, yes, it’s actually Taranaki Maunga, but whenever it does reveal itself from behind the cloud, I can’t help but think of Tom Cruise and the movie, “The Last Samurai”, which filmed in the area and used Mt Taranaki as Mt Fuji.
The Pukeiti Gardens with its volcanic soils and high rainfall is really a “holy grail” for rhododendrons in New Zealand. There’s a rich history to the collections of rhodo species, cultivars, and propagation here. We have a guided walk with a senior gardener who helps us avoid the rain for the most part as I run back to the vehicle and grab an armful of our complimentary umbrellas.
Leaving the rainforest we continue along the western flank of Mt Taranaki not far from the coast to meet the owners of three country gardens.
First we call into Hikurangi to meet Maureen Brophy. This was a wonderful visit out in the countryside wandering the pathways through this colourful, rambling, seven acre woodland garden. There are many big trees and open lawns and from the large pond with its new bridge there are wonderful views out to the maunga.
After lunch we visit Guy and Jenny Oakley’s garden which is close to Hawera and designated a New Zealand Garden Trust Six Star garden, it has fully planted garden rooms linked with hedge-lined pathways. Cottage-style borders, early flowering roses, and incredibly profuse hanging baskets are a special feature.
Our last visit of the day is Elaine Sanderson’s garden on a dairy farm only a kilometre or so from the west coast. The salt-laden winds have meant her New Zealand Garden Trust Five Star garden has to be able to withstand all sorts of wild weather. There is absolutely no chance of rhododendrons thriving here. Instead Elaine has created a garden of many treasured plants, including some from her mother’s garden, set among sculptures and columns that complement the roses and shubbery.
We return to New Plymouth in the late afternoon for our final night at the Waterfront and dine in at the Salt Restaurant with its views out to the Len Lye Wind Wand.
Day 4 – New Plymouth – Pukekura Park – Cairnhill Garden – Puketarata Garden – Gravetye Garden – Whanganui
In the morning we set off for Pukekura Park. Strolling in past the iconic terraced cricket ground it feels like we couldn’t get any more of a quintessential New Plymouth experience than this. Next to the café sits a million-dollar vista, looking down the lake over the red Poet’s Bridge with Mt Taranaki in full view as the backdrop. The rhododendron dell is a highlight for our group.
We head out of New Plymouth to Cairnhill, a New Zealand Garden Trust Five Star Garden east of Stratford, at the start of the Forgotten World Highway, and get spoilt during morning tea with home baking and a wander in the verdant garden, all shared by our warm hosts June and Colin Lees.
A bit further down the road is Puketarata Garden with Jennifer and Ken Homer. What I find fascinating about this New Zealand Garden Trust Six Star Garden is the fact they have found pre-European hangi stones on the property. Jennifer and Ken have also printed a booklet on the history of both the property and garden which some of the group take away as a souvenir.
On our way to Whanganui for the night we stop in Hawera at Gravetye Garden hosted by Jenny and John Pease. Now one of the fantastic things about an organised garden tour is that not one garden is the same and these wonderful differences are highlighted as we go along. Gravetye is no exception and the hedges here must be seen to be believed. Another very worthy stop.
Day 5 – Whanganui – Heritage Park Rhododendron Gardens – Cross Hills Gardens – Ohakune
Today we first make our way to Heritage Park Rhododendron Gardens at Kimbolton in the Manawatu which was originally set up by the New Zealand Rhododendron Association in 1969. By 2006 the garden was no longer required by the association so a trust was created to own and manage the park which is cared for by a team of volunteers.
We are met by a volunteer who guides us along easy pathways through this 5-hectare site, home to 2000 rhododendrons. The Park, similar to its neighbour, Crosshills Gardens, is set 520 metres above sea level a perfect location for growing rhododendrons azaleas and magnolias as well as many specimen trees, shrubs and plants.
At Cross Hills Gardens our guide gives us a great introduction to the area and then it’s time to wander with map in hand (or not) through this impressive garden.
As for Rhododendrons, Cross Hills has it covered well and truly. Being a foodie, I have to mention the lunch in the old-fashioned style tearoom, reminiscent of the ones that used to be dotted all over New Zealand. Don’t get me wrong I love our modern cafe culture but there is something very comforting about the Cross Hills cafe with the sandwiches, savouries, and slices washed down with a pot of tea.
I always like to stop at The Wool Store at Utiku. I’m a big fan of supporting New Zealand made products especially wool products as both my parents grew up on sheep farms in the South Island. In saying that, it has definitely been encouraging to witness the resurgence of merino wool in recent years; and with that in mind, it’s almost certain that I’ll buy two pairs of locally made merino socks!
We all enjoy the dramatic scenery of the guardian mountains as we approach Ohakune and the Powderhorn Chateau Hotel at the foot of Mt Ruapehu. After checking in, for those who are keen, we drive up through the mountain beech forests to enjoy the views and take a peek at the Turoa Skifield. We dine in the hotel where I find a dip in the indoor swimming pool is always a nice way to end the day.
Day 6 – Ohakune – Bradley’s Garden – Omaka Lodge – Aramatai Garden – Auckland
*After breakfast in our hotel restaurant we’re bound for Taumarunui to visit two New Zealand Garden Trust Five Star Gardens. First we meet Melana and Simon at Bradley’s Garden which they established over 30 years ago. There’s lots to enjoy in this beautiful garden, a popular wedding venue, has nine distinct garden areas, including Italian and cottage gardens, a gazebo lawn, lavender lane and an olive grove cathedral.
Nearby at Omaka Lodge we meet Christopher Riches and Scott Riches-McPherson who have created a stunning, landscaped garden high on a ridge with expansive views out to the Whanganui River and the mountains. Liquidambar trees line the driveway and in spring Bluebells and Daffodils bloom. Among the thousands of plants in the garden beds are Bergenia, Hosta, Euphorbia, Rose, Astelia and Hydrangea.
Continuing north, we lunch with Jill Mouat at lovely Aramatai Garden near Te Kuiti. This garden is on a dairy farm in a secluded valley with large ponds and exotic trees and features a host of Rhododendrons, Camellias, Roses, Clematis, Lillies, Irises.
It’s been a wonderful six days. Getting out in the countryside in spring is a great uplift after winter and the sight of all those amazing rhododendrons in flower will warm anyone’s heart! But sadly all good things have to end. After a great catch up over lunch with Jill we depart Aramatai and drive on through the Waikato farmlands to reach Auckland in the late afternoon.
* New itinerary for the final day of our tour.
Discover Taranaki’s Rhododendron Gardens for yourself
I hope you’ve enjoyed my pictures and stories from Taranaki.
As well as the beautiful rhododendrons, what I always remember from these trips are the people. Our warm friendly hosts who welcome us into their gardens and share their life’s work with us, and of course our amazing guests, who come together from all parts of the country to make this journey a once in a lifetime experience.
It’s sharing this time with great people which makes these tours special.
See more about our Taranaki Rhododendron Gardens tour here and come find out for yourself this spring.
